Pair of New-Old-Stock 36-Hole Weinmann ZAC19 26" Clincher Rims w/Schrader Valves

Description

Pair of New-Old-Stock 36-Hole Weinmann ZAC19 26" Clincher Rims w/Schrader Valves
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Product Description:
This offering is for a matched pair of new-old-stock Weinmann ZAC19 26" clincher rims with 36 holes (w/ eyelets). We were told by the supplier these rims were made from a 6XXX series heat treated aluminum alloy...and this appears reasonable given the wheel weight. It's a decent quality wheel with a black finish and probably best suited for most non competitive mountain bike (or equivalent) applications.
Some technical specifications include the following...
Rim type:
36-hole clincher w/double wall and schrader valve
Rim size (diameter):
26" (or 559 mm)
Rim width (inner/outer):
19 mm / 24 mm
Rim height:
17 mm
Weight (Park hanging scale):
2 lbs 4 oz (or 1.02 kgs) for the pair...so 1 lb 2 oz (or 0.56 kgs) for each rim
Other notes:
These rims include a ribbed sidewall (safety grooves) braking surface to help assess rim wear over time. It's our understanding a rim with these grooves is considered unsafe to ride when the safety grooves are no longer visible (as a result of repeated braking that eventually wears down the sidewalls of a rim).
As noted above, this is a pair of decent quality MTB rims in new-old-stock condition. We especially like the double-wall design and eyelets noted at the spoke holes, as they reinforce/strengthen this high stress area of the rim.  I am selling them in pairs to help offset the relatively high shipping costs (because I can ship a pair of rims for nearly the same shipping charge as just one rim).
As for condition, these rims are new and unused, but came to us bulk packed, so please expect some shopwear (scuffs and scratches). I am also seeing evidence of lacing, which is consistent with what I was told from a supplier. More specifically, I purchased complete wheels, rims and hubs (all new-old-stock) from a supplier, but was alerted to the fact that many of the hubs and rims had been previously built up into complete wheels. Although, at some point selected wheels were "disassembled" and stored as rims and hubs. I was not given a reason why, but I can confirm when I compare these component parts to the complete wheels, they look to be in identical (new-old-stock) condition.
Supplemental discussion…conventional (older stock) wheel design…
Our expertise when it comes to wheels is really no better than an amateur or enthusiast. Although, we still wanted to share a few thoughts and observations with respect to wheels based on our limited experience. This discussion is probably best characterized as only providing basic information, but hopefully some folks still find the information beneficial.
Rim:
Double-wall rims tend to be stronger (although to what degree is often debated...and subject to other factors like rim design and lacing), because there is an additional interior wall connected to the sidewalls. Single-wall rims are usually lighter and not as strong/durable, because they do not have the added interior support noted in a double-wall rim. Taller/deeper rims tend to be more aerodynamic, but the trade-off is they are generally stiffer. We measure the depth of a rim by taking a rim height measurement...so the higher this number, the greater the rim depth. The number of spoke holes contributes to the strength of a wheel...with more spokes generally resulting in a stronger wheel. There can be some weight savings with rims designed to accomodate fewer spokes, but the savings is usually minimal, because thicker/heavier rims are generally needed to compensate for fewer spokes. Good quality rims will also include eyelets at spoke holes to reinforce this area of the rim against cracking/failure when the wheel is under stress. Additionally, narrower rims are spec'd with narrower tires that usually need to be inflated to a higher pressure. This too generally results in a faster wheel with less rolling resistance, but the trade-off is a harsher ride.
Spokes:
The size of a spoke is generally specified in terms of it's wire gauge. The lower the wire gauge, the greater the spoke diameter. As a result, rims built with spokes having a lower wire gauge are generally going to produce stronger wheels. Additionally, spokes machined with a uniform wire gauge are referred to as straight gauge, while spokes machined with multiple wire gauges (generally a lower gauge/thicker wire at the ends and a higher gauge/thinner wire in the middle) are referred to as butted spokes. The latter provides benefits similar to those realized with butted frame tubes. More specifically, the thicker wire at the spoke ends improves strength at the high stress areas of a wheel. While the thinner wire in the middle provides modest weight savings and some added resiliency against direct/localized stress on a wheel. In other words, a thinner wire gauge at the middle of a spoke allows for some added flex in a wheel, which permits some distribution of localized stress to neighboring spokes. This effect is subtle, but appears to have some merit in reducing the likelihood of rims cracking around spoke holes.
Spoke pattern (lacing):
Conventional spoke patterns are labeled according to the number of times a spoke crosses other spokes connected to the same flange on a hub. For example, a "cross-3" pattern is probably the most common among conventional (old stock) wheels and describes a wheel where each spoke "crossess" three other spokes on it's way from the rim to the hub. This conventional spoke pattern is also referred to as a semi-tanget pattern, because spokes generally leave/enter the flange area of a hub at (or near) a tanget. Higher cross rates/numbers generally result in a wheel that effectively handles the twisting forces generated from low gear pedaling at high effort or the heavy use of hub brakes. A "cross-0" pattern (also known as radial lacing) is where spokes enter/exit a hub flange at a near perpendicular angle. As a result, no spokes cross each other when lacing in a radial pattern. This allows for shorter spokes and a slightly lighter wheel, but there are some strength/build issues associated with radial lacing that generally limits this pattern to front wheels only (and again, this discussion is focued primarily on the conventional/older stock wheels).
I understand we have only begun to touch on wheel design with the above comments, but hopefully the basic information is a good starting point for some folks in the beginning stages of shopping for wheels.
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